If you’re up for something different, this is the recipe for you. Vis frikkadel or viskoekies have deep roots in the Cape Malay culinary tradition, and their story is tied to both migration and survival. The Cape Malay community in South Africa traces its ancestry mainly to enslaved and exiled people brought by the Dutch East India Company from Indonesia, Malaysia, India, and East Africa in the 1600s-1800s. Along with their language, religion, and customs, they brought a rich food heritage that blended Southeast Asian spices with local Cape ingredients.

Fish was a staple at the Cape because the sea was abundant and, for poorer households, it was often more affordable than meat. Viskoekies emerged as a thrifty, flavorful way to stretch small amounts of fish. Hake, kingklip, or horse mackerel (snoek) were mixed with mashed potato, onion, and Cape Malay spice blends like cumin, coriander, turmeric, and chili. The warm, aromatic spice profile reflects the Indonesian roots of Cape Malay cooking, much different than the less mildly spiced fish cakes of Northern Europe. The fish cakes were a Tuesday night dinner staple for my family. For many Cape Malay families, viskoekies or vis frikkadel carry a strong sense of place…A reminder of the role of the ocean in shaping livelihoods and menus. I hope you love the recipe as much as I do. Thank you for your willingness to learn more about my culture, and for wanting to try something new.

A few tips before you begin:

1. Use any tinned fish in water. I use mackerel, but tuna, canned salmon, or sardines all work well.
2. I have tried this recipe with gluten-free breadcrumbs and found no difference, so try it!
3. Try not to skip freezing them for a bit. They’ll hold together much better.
4. Dry spices can be substituted for fresh, no problem. Add 1 teaspoon Cajun seasoning if you like.
5. Low and slow is the way to go when frying. A large skillet with 1/2-inch of avocado oil is perfect.

Viskoekies met Tamatiesmoor
Serves: 2 | Prep Time: 15 minutes | Cook Time: 20-25 minutes

Fish Cakes
2 (4.5 ounce) cans boneless skinless mackerel filets, drained and flaked with a fork
2 large eggs
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
1/2 cup plain breadcrumbs
1/2 small red onion, very finely chopped
2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley or coriander (sub 2 teaspoons dried)
1 teaspoon finely chopped red or green chili (jalapeño is great if you prefer less spice)
1 teaspoon kosher salt
1 teaspoon ground coriander
1/2 teaspoon ground cumin
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1/4 teaspoon turmeric powder
1/4 teaspoon chili powder

1/4 cup avocado oil, for frying

Tomato Relish
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
1/2 small red onion, chopped
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
1 fresh or dried bay leaf
4 medium tomatoes (6 roma), chopped (You should have at least 2 heaped cups full)
1 teaspoon kosher salt
1 teaspoon granulated sugar (more to taste)
1/2 teaspoon turmeric powder
1/2 teaspoon curry powder or garam masala (I like Malaysian curry powder)

Form the fish cakes: Add all ingredients for the fish cakes to a large bowl and mix well until well combined. There should be no clumps of the same ingredient in any one place. The mixture should come together pretty easily even though it might not look like a dough. It should hold, and if it doesn’t, add more breadcrumbs and a bit of milk (2 tablespoons). Form into 4 patties using the palms of your hands, then place on a small sheet pan and freeze for 30 to 45 minutes.

Meanwhile, make the relish: Heat the olive oil a medium saucepan over medium heat. Add the onion and cook, stirring often, until soft and lightly golden, 2 minutes. Add the garlic, bay leaf, tomatoes, salt, sugar, turmeric powder and curry powder then stir and cook, covered, stirring occasionally until the tomatoes are broken down and the sauce is thick. This should take 10 to 15 minutes. If you notice the liquids reducing too much, add a splash of water and stir then reduce the heat to simmer. Keep the relish simmering while you fry the fish cakes.

Fry the fish cakes: Heat the avocado oil in a large skillet over medium-low heat. Carefully place the fish cakes in the hot oil, and cook, flipping halfway through, for 8 to 10 minutes. You’re looking for a deep golden color on both sides. Remove and drain on a plate lined with paper towel.

I serve my fish cakes with mashed potatoes the way my mother makes them as a side for any fish dish…with a pinch of nutmeg. I know, I know, it’s a “sweet” spice. Nutmeg was brought to the Cape from Indonesia and is a staple in Cape Malay cooking, so it’s a non-negotiable for me. Make your mashed potatoes the way you normally would, then grate in some fresh nutmeg, about 1/4 teaspoon.

Plate it up by dividing the fish cakes among two plates with mashed potatoes, and spoon over some tomato relish. Absolutely homey and comforting.

During the darker early days of South Africa’s history, the Cape was colonized by the Dutch East India Company who required labourers to establish the infrastructure. The people of Indonesia, Malaysia as well as India were highly skilled and were therefore brought to live and work as slaves in the area. These people who later became known as the Cape Malays, brought with them their traditional cooking techniques, adapting recipes by using ingredients commonly found in the Western Cape at that time - mainly deciduous fruits. Though South Africa has many different ethnic groups and cultures, these people were my ancestors and this Cape Malay Chicken Curry is a good example of how a classic Malaysian curry is transformed with the addition of fruit or preserves. It’s served with a deliciously crucial element, a very easy onion and tomato sambal made with punchy raw onion, sugar and malt vinegar (Vinegar is used liberally in Cape Malay Cuisine). I’ve noticed that sweet and sour flavors reign supreme in South Africa, diverse as we are.

Coming back from a recent trip to South Africa, I realized just how integral a good chicken curry is to any social gathering. I watched carefully as my mother made her sambal, the steps taken to ensure a good balance of flavor that perfectly complements the curry and rice. Our people have made this for generations and so it’s done with a sort of graceful ease…We know what we are doing and rarely rely on a recipe. Our hands chop the vegetables to a very old rythm and the sound of a metal spoon stirring the pot is one indication that we are about to taste happiness itself. Even though it is not my typical 15 minute recipe, I hope that you can find some time to make and enjoy this approachable version because it is so very dear to my heart.

A few tips:

Traditionally, whole pieces of chicken is used since the bones impart a wonderful flavor. I’ve made an adjustment by using skinless boneless chicken thigh pieces that are easier to eat. In this case, chicken stock is used instead of water to create more depth of flavor.

The sambal is absolutely important. In their book Cape, Curry and Koesisters by sisters Fatima and Gadija Sydow, they mention that guests usually complain when it’s not on the table. I fully agree and I hope that you make it as well! Malt vinegar can be found at most grocery stores now, and the South African spices and chutney served on the side can both be found on Amazon. I will link those in the ingredient list.

If you are following a low carb diet, the potatoes can easily be replaced by radish or even cauliflower florets. The apricot jam can be replaced with sugar-free apricot jam. Onions, garlic and curry powder usually contain quite a bit of carbs so you can reduce the amounts and serve your curry over strips of green cabbage sautéed in butter with a pinch of nutmeg instead of rice. Delicious. For the sambal, use monkfruit sweetener instead of sugar.

The sambal is best after all the juices are allowed to meld in the refrigerator for at least 30 minutes. Make it before you start the curry so that it’s ready to serve once everything is done.

Cape Malay Chicken Curry with Onion and Tomato Sambal
Prep Time: 15 minutes | Cook Time: 45 minutes | Serves: 4-6

1 tablespoon neutral oil
1 medium yellow onion, finely diced
1/2 cup chopped green bell pepper
4 cloves garlic, finely minced
1/2 tablespoon freshly grated ginger root
1 fresh bay leaf
1 cinnamon stick
1 star anise
1 cardamom pod
2 whole cloves
1 1/2 tablespoons Rajah Curry Powder
1/2 tablespoon yellow curry paste
1 1/2 pounds boneless skinless chicken thighs, cut into 2 -inch cubes
3 medium potatoes, peeled and quartered
1 teaspoon salt + more to taste
1 teaspoon white pepper
2-3 cups chicken stock
1/2 cup freshly chopped cilantro, divided
2 tablespoons smooth apricot jam
To serve: Mr’s Balls Peach Chutney is a classic condiment that goes very well with any curry!

Onion and Tomato Sambal
1 cup thinly sliced yellow or white onion
1/2 cup thinly sliced persian cucumber
1/2 cup chopped tomato (I use cherry tomato but any variety is fine)
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon cracked black pepper
1/3 cup malt vinegar
white sugar to taste (about 4 tablespoons)

Guidelines:

Add oil to a heavy bottomed pot over medium-high heat. Sauté onions and green pepper for 2-3 minutes until translucent. If it starts to brown too quickly please reduce your heat and add 2-3 tablespoons of water at a time to continue the cooking process as needed. Add garlic, ginger, whole spices and curry powders/paste, stirring for 1-2 minutes until fragrant.

Place chicken, potatoes, salt and pepper and the pot. Use a spoon to toss chicken and potatoes until coated with spices then add chicken stock, half of the cilantro and the apricot jam. Reduce heat to medium-low and simmer for 30-40 minutes or until potatoes are very soft and sauce thickened. Add remaining cilantro and adjust seasoning. Remove whole spices right before serving over fluffly basmati rice and sambal (recipe follows)

Add all sambal ingredients to a medium bowl and stir to combine. The balance of sweet and sour depends on how you like it, please add enough sugar until you feel it’s reached the correct taste. For me that’s usually 4 tablespoons.